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“He
proudly shows us the branches of the coffee trees, bent under the weight of
their crop. He touches them tenderly, as a father would his children… his eyes
shining with happiness. 'Do you know, doctor, why these branches curve so
toward the earth? They are grateful to the farmer, and bow before God.'"
José Corvetti, describing a visit to the farm of Italian immigrant T.
Malavasi,Tres Ríos, 1935
Coffee
and Costa Rica were meant for each other, and they have grown and prospered
together, complementing each other in the pursuit of excellence. Costa Rica
repealed the death penalty in 1870 and abolished the army in 1948, and coffee
supported those reforms with its high productivity and environmentally
friendly disposition.
In
a country which has enacted laws protecting 21% of its territory in order to
preserve the 5% of the world's biodiversity it shelters, Costa Ricans are
encouraged by their environment to love what they do, and to do it
well.
In
its desire to protect the environment, Costa Rica has carefully tended the
soils and climate that are best suited to coffee production. As Costa Rica's
soils have been enriched by volcanic ash, they contain a slight degree of
tropical acidity. They are also rich in organic matter, which makes for good
distribution of the coffee plant's root system, enabling them to retain
humidity and facilitating oxygenation. This combination of factors invigorates
the coffee plants and is one of many elements contributing to the quality of
Costa Rican coffee.
Over
70% of the country's coffee is produced in the mountains, which vary in
altitude from 3,280 to 5,580 feet above sea level. Mountain temperatures range
from 63 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit. Sunlight is stable, and precipitation levels
are ideal. All this makes for as dependable and high-quality a coffee crop as
any produced in a greenhouse.
Costa
Rica is the only country in the world which has issued an executive order
(N°19302-MAG, 4 December 1989) banning the production of any variety of coffee
other than Arabica. This standard is made possible by the expertise,
experience and favorable physical conditions which converge in this remarkable
land.
The
story of Costa Rica's coffee is the story of the nation that saw it come to
life over two centuries ago. Throughout the years, it has been the yardstick
by which the country's life and economy have been
measured.
Our grandparents tell
us...
Coffee
was first brought to Costa Rica during the last decade of the eighteenth
century. So we are told in a letter sent by Panamanian trader Agustín de Gana
to the Governor of Costa Rica, Don José Vásquez y Téllez, announcing that he
was sending two pounds of coffee.
The history books tells us that Father Felix Velarde was the first Costa Rican
coffee grower; his will, dated 1816, refers to a plot of land on which coffee
had been planted. Tradition has it that he bequeathed the seeds to his
neighbors, inviting them to plant them. His suggestion must have taken hold,
because the first recorded export of Costa Rican coffee, a one-hundred pound
shipment to Panama, took place in 1820.
By
1832 coffee was also being exported to Chile by Jorge Stiepel, a German
businessman living in Costa Rica. In Chile, the coffee was repackaged and sent
to England, where it was sold as "Valparaíso Chilean Coffee".
Meanwhile,
a group of forward-looking coffee producers, including Mariano Montealegre,
who was the main promoter of the crop between 1830 and 1840, decided to take
on the task of exporting it directly to England. The first shipment was made
in 1843 thanks to the efforts of the captain of an English ship, The Monarch,
which transported 5,505 one-hundred-pound sacks to
Europe.
The
first two Heads of State of Costa Rica, Juan Mora Fernández and Braulio
Carrillo, strongly supported the coffee trade, as they sensed that it could
generate economic growth and enhance Costa Rica's position on the
international market.
As
coffee production developed further, the country's economy, society, and
culture flourished. But that is another story…
The
story of Costa Rica's coffee is the story of the nation that saw it come to
life over two centuries ago. Throughout the years, it has been the yardstick
by which the country's life and economy have been
measured.
Coffee bears fruit…
What
does coffee have to do with the theater? What does the tax year have to do
with the coffee harvest? In Costa Rica such relationships are essential, and
are part of the benefits obtained from the "Golden Grain", as it is called in
Costa Rica.
Coffee
exports to Europe during the mid-nineteenth century brought many opportunities
for Costa Rica, opening a window to the Old World that would eventually bring
in railroads, a postal service, printing presses, the country's first
university, and what is perhaps the region's greatest architectural treasure:
the National Theater. Designed as a miniature copy of the Paris Opera House,
the National Theater, located in the center of the capital city of San José,
became a symbol of coffee-driven prosperity because it was initially financed
by coffee taxes.
Coffee
did not simply transform the Costa Rican economy and its landscape, it also
changed consumer behavior and working patterns. The development of a taste for
coffee was, perhaps, a reflection of the democratic society that was being
forged. In the words of historians Peters and Samper, "Drinking coffee became
a ritual of Costa Rican society, a society that was free of economic and
social distinctions; everyone drank it, from the simplest farmer or laborer to
the most prominent politician."
And,
just as Costa Rica lives and breathes democracy and peace, it also lives and
breathes coffee. It is no coincidence that per capita consumption of this
drink is the highest of all coffee-producing countries in the world. The close
relationship between coffee and daily life led Costa Ricans to plan their
calendar around the harvesting, processing and sale of coffee, to such an
extent that the Costa Rican tax year is based on the coffee trade: it begins
in October and ends in September of the following year.
For
a long time, in fact, even the school year revolved around the coffee harvest.
But that did not prevent education in Costa Rica from becoming in 1886, what
it still is today: free and mandatory.
Textbooks
and teachers arriving from Chile during the early years of the coffee trade,
and later on, from Europe, became part of a tradition which also included a
unique land ownership structure, in which small and medium-sized properties
have remained a part of the rural landscape to this day. That landscape has
changed over the years. What has not changed is Costa Rica's continuing love
affair with coffee.
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